10 Days in Ireland: The Road Trip Itinerary I’d Do Again in a Heartbeat
A real-life early May itinerary through Dublin, Waterford, Kerry, Dingle, Galway, Clare and the Cliffs of Moher
This was genuinely one of the best trips of my life.
Not in a polished, luxury-travel, everything-went-perfectly kind of way. More in the “we drove through impossible shades of green, ate fish and chips by the sea, stayed in a castle lodge, watched the weather change every 12 minutes, squeezed too much into the itinerary, laughed constantly, and kept saying, wait, this is insane” kind of way.
We started and ended the trip in Dublin, which worked really well logistically. It also helped that we had recommendations from a local Dubliner friend, the kind of friend whose saved map pins you trust more than a random top-10 list. By the end, our Dublin map was full of little hearts: pubs, restaurants, places to stop for a drink, and spots that made the city feel more personal than just a final overnight before leaving.
We went in early May, and I loved that timing. Ireland felt lush, alive, dramatic, and not completely overrun yet. It was still the kind of trip where you needed a rain jacket in the car at all times, but also the kind where the light would suddenly break through and make everything look cinematic.
This is the itinerary I’d recommend if you want:
dramatic landscapes
cozy pubs
coastal drives
castles and cliffs
a little chaos
real local moments
music that makes you emotional
a road trip that feels like an actual adventure
Our route at a glance
Dublin Airport: arrival, car pickup, and starting point
Carlow: quick personal stop to see friends and visit VISUAL Carlow
Waterford: castle lodge stay and access to the Copper Coast
Sneem / Kerry: the emotional heart of the trip
Dingle Peninsula: one of the most beautiful days
Killarney National Park: lakes, waterfalls, and classic Ireland landscapes
Galway / Clare: west-coast energy, the Burren, the Cliffs of Moher, and an unexpectedly creative Airbnb connection
Dublin: local pub recommendations, one final city day, and a drink by the river
Dublin to Holyhead ferry: a very cool old-school travel ending
Why early May was perfect
Early May felt like a sweet spot.
You get:
spring landscapes
baby lamb energy
fewer crowds than peak summer
long-enough days
cozy pub weather
a good excuse to pack layers
enough rain to make Ireland feel like Ireland
enough sun breaks to make you emotional
Would I go again in early May? Absolutely.
Would I pack better waterproof shoes next time? Also yes.
The itinerary I’d recommend
Day 1: Arrive in Dublin, pick up the car, and drive inland
This is your soft landing day.
Do not try to make it epic. You just got off a flight, picked up a rental car, and probably need coffee, food, and a second to remember how to drive on the left.
Keep it simple:
land at Dublin Airport
pick up your rental car
drive toward your first overnight stop
do a low-key dinner
sleep
We started by passing through Carlow, where we had friends. That made the first part of the trip feel personal instead of purely itinerary-driven.
One of our friends works at VISUAL Carlow, an arts organization on Old Dublin Road, and seeing her work and that space was one of the highlights of the stop. It reminded me that not every great travel moment has to happen in the obvious destination.
Abroad Edit tip
If you’re road-tripping Ireland and have friends somewhere outside the classic tourist route, build that into the itinerary. Some of the best parts of the trip were the personal stops, not just the famous ones.
Day 2: Ease into Ireland
Use this day to settle in instead of sprinting immediately toward the major highlights.
Ireland is the kind of country where you can convince yourself you need to see everything, but the trip gets big quickly. Starting slower made the whole route feel more grounded.
A good slow-start day could include:
a relaxed breakfast
a walk around town
seeing friends if you have people nearby
a grocery or snack run for the car
an early night before the longer drives begin
Abroad Edit tip
Do not over-plan the first 24 hours. Ireland road trips are amazing, but they are also tiring because every drive is visually distracting.
Day 3: Waterford Castle and the Copper Coast
This was one of the more fun accommodation moments of the trip.
We stayed at Waterford Castle Hotel Lodges, which worked really well for a group. The lodges are self-catering, sleep six people, and give you that castle-resort feeling without needing everyone to be in full formal hotel mode.
Why Waterford Castle worked
practical for a group
three-bedroom lodge setup
castle-resort setting
self-catering flexibility
felt special without being complicated
If you have time, use Waterford as a base for the Copper Coast UNESCO Global Geopark, which is full of cliffs, bays, coastal landscapes, and dramatic scenery.
Stops to consider around Waterford
Bunmahon
Tankardstown
Dungarvan
Seagull Bakery
Merry’s Gastro Pub
Dun Artisan Bakery
Abroad Edit tip
If you are doing this trip with friends or family, the castle lodge setup is a great middle ground between “cute hotel” and “we need actual space.”
Day 4: Drive toward Kerry via Cork, Kinsale or Clonakilty
This is the day where you need to be honest with yourself.
There are so many good stops between Waterford and Kerry that it is very easy to accidentally create an itinerary that only works if nobody needs lunch, a bathroom, or joy.
Possible stops
Youghal
Cork City
Kinsale
OHK Café
The Bulman Bar & Restaurant
Midleton Distillery Experience
Clonakilty
Skibbereen
Would I try to do all of this in one day? No.
My ideal version
coffee or a short walk in Cork or Kinsale
seafood lunch near Kinsale
whiskey stop at Midleton if that matters to you
continue to Kerry before everyone gets cranky
Abroad Edit tip
Google Maps will tell you what is technically possible. Your nervous system will tell you what is actually enjoyable. Listen to the second one.
Days 5–7: Sneem as your Kerry base
Sneem was the emotional heart of the trip.
We stayed in a HomeExchange, and it ended up being one of the most special parts of the whole Ireland adventure. The house gave us that cozy, lived-in feeling that makes a road trip feel less like you’re just passing through and more like you’ve briefly landed inside someone else’s real life.
We also got to meet the owner of our exchange, and he made us feel so genuinely at home. That is one of the reasons I love HomeExchange for certain trips. It is not just about saving money on accommodation, though that is obviously a huge plus. It can also make a place feel more personal, especially somewhere like Ireland, where local warmth is such a big part of the experience.
Save my HomeExchange referral link here:
Sneem itself felt small, colorful, emotional, and strangely hard to leave. It was the kind of place where you think you’re just using it as a base, and then suddenly you’re in a pub listening to live Irish music with tears in your eyes, wondering why you don’t live there.
What made Sneem special
our cozy HomeExchange stay
feeling welcomed by the host
being close to Kerry’s big landscapes
the small-town feeling
live Irish music
local pub warmth
the feeling of being briefly folded into the place instead of just observing it
What to do from Sneem
Sneem is small, but it is well-positioned for some of the most beautiful parts of the trip.
Save these:
Gap of Dunloe
Dunquin Pier / Cé Dhún Chaoin
Hold a Baby Lamb
The Fish Box
Valentia Island
Eyeries
Derrynane Beach
Kenmare
The Sneem moment I’ll never forget: live music at Dan Murphy’s
One of the happiest moments of the trip was seeing live Irish music at Dan Murphy’s in Sneem.
It honestly brought me to tears. Not sad tears. More like “I cannot believe I get to be here, in this pub, hearing this music, feeling this welcomed” tears.
As a musician, this kind of moment hits differently. You can plan the cliffs, the castles, the drives, the restaurants. But you cannot really plan the moment where a room full of people, music, pints, warmth, and place all come together and make you feel completely present.
We were welcomed like locals, and I truly did not want to leave.
Save it:
Abroad Edit tip
If you see live music listed in a small-town Irish pub, go.
Even if you’re tired. Even if you think you’ll just stay for one drink. These are the moments you remember.
The thing I wish I had done: Sneem Seaweed Baths
One thing I really wish I had made time for was Sneem Seaweed Baths.
Our HomeExchange host told us they were amazing and said the owner was “absolute class,” which is exactly the kind of local endorsement that makes me trust a place immediately.
We didn’t manage to fit it in, but it is at the top of my list for next time. After days of driving, walking, weather, pubs, cliffs, and emotional overstimulation, a seaweed bath in Kerry sounds like the exact kind of reset this trip deserved.
Save it:
Sneem Seaweed Baths
Why I’d make time for it next time
it feels very local to the area
it would be perfect after a long driving day
it adds a wellness moment to an otherwise very active road trip
it came personally recommended by our host
it gives you a reason to slow down in Sneem instead of only using it as a base
Abroad Edit tip
Build in one recovery activity on an Ireland road trip. A seaweed bath, spa, sauna, or slow pub lunch counts. You will need it more than you think.
The day I would not skip: Dingle Peninsula
If you only have one big dramatic coastal day, make it Dingle Peninsula.
This was one of the most beautiful parts of the trip.
Build the day around
Caife Na Trá for coffee with a view
Dunquin Pier
Hold a Baby Lamb
The Fish Box for fish and chips
Dingle is not a place to rush. The roads, views, stops, sheep, cliffs, and weather are the whole point.
Abroad Edit tip
Build in more time than Google Maps tells you. Every “quick stop” becomes 20 minutes because you will want to take photos, stare at the view, or wait for sheep to move.
Killarney National Park, Gap of Dunloe and Torc Waterfall
Kerry is where the trip started feeling almost unreal.
Killarney National Park gives you that classic Ireland mix of lakes, mountains, woodland, and waterfalls.
If you have time, I’d save:
Gap of Dunloe
a lake tour around Killarney
a slow stop in Kenmare
Practical Sneem tip
Avoid the Ring of Kerry tour-bus window if you can. Our HomeExchange host recommended avoiding bus traffic around 11 AM–4 PM, and honestly, that kind of local advice is gold.
The better move:
leave early
choose fewer stops
come back before everyone is exhausted
use Kenmare as your practical nearby town when needed
Optional: Skellig Islands
We had the Skellig Islands on the dream list, mainly for puffins, wildlife, and the drama of it all.
But I’d treat this as an add-on, not something to casually squeeze into a packed family or group road trip.
Why it is tricky
it is weather dependent
it adds a lot of driving
landing tours are limited and seasonal
it is not automatically suitable for young kids
you need to plan around boat availability
My take: if you are going early May with a child or a mixed group, a non-landing eco tour may be more realistic than trying to build the whole itinerary around a Skellig Michael landing.
Days 8–9: Galway, Clare and the Cliffs of Moher
After Kerry, we moved toward Kinvara / Ballyvaughan, which gave us access to Galway, Clare, the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher.
This part of the trip had a different feel: more west-coast wildness, more stone landscapes, more “are we on another planet?” energy.
We stayed in an Airbnb near Ballyvaughan, and it ended up having one of the most unexpected personal connections of the trip. The owner was Dáithí, an Irish multi-instrumentalist and producer from the west of Ireland.
I later found out he had gone viral with “Mary Keane’s Introduction,” a beautiful song built around recordings of his grandmother speaking about love and life in Clare. As a musician, this felt incredibly special and inspiring, like the house had its own little creative soul attached to it.
Save the stay:
Listen:
What to save around Ballyvaughan / Clare
Galway
Coffeewerk + Press
The Burren
Keane’s Bar
Roundstone
Clifden Sky Road
Downpatrick Head
Absolute must near Ballyvaughan: The Óir House
If you are anywhere near Ballyvaughan, I would absolutely stop at The Óir House.
It was one of those places that immediately made the area feel more special: beautiful setting, calm energy, and the kind of local product discovery I love finding on a trip.
I bought their Moss Boss Tonic, and it was genuinely delicious.
Save it:
Abroad Edit tip
This is exactly the kind of stop I love building into a road trip: not a giant attraction, not a tourist checklist item, but a beautiful local place that gives you a taste of where you are.
Cliffs of Moher
Yes, the Cliffs of Moher are famous.
Yes, they are touristy.
Yes, they are still worth it.
My advice
go as early as you can
expect wind
wear real shoes
do not assume the weather will cooperate
book or plan ahead if going in busier months
add a pub plan afterward
The Cliffs of Moher are one of those places where you think, “Surely it can’t be that impressive if everyone goes,” and then you get there and remember that sometimes famous places are famous for a reason.
Connemara: be realistic
We had big dreams around Kylemore Abbey, Clifden Sky Road, Roundstone, and maybe even Downpatrick Head.
But this is where you need to be ruthless.
If you only have two nights in the Galway / Clare area, you cannot do everything without turning the trip into a driving marathon.
Pick your version
Cliffs-focused: Cliffs of Moher + Burren + Kinvara / Galway
Connemara-focused: Kylemore Abbey + Clifden Sky Road + Roundstone
Luxury peek: Glenlo Abbey or Ashford Castle as a special stop
Wild-card cliffs: Downpatrick Head, but only if you accept the distance
Abroad Edit tip
This is the part of Ireland where “just one more stop” can ruin the day. Choose your priority before you leave in the morning.
Day 10: Dublin pubs, local recommendations and one last drink by the river
We ended the trip back in Dublin, which felt right. After all the wild landscapes, tiny roads, cliffs, and cozy houses, it was nice to finish with city energy, pubs, and one last night out.
We had a list of Dublin recommendations from a local friend, and honestly, that made the city so much easier to approach. Dublin can feel overwhelming if you’re just looking at the obvious tourist spots, but with a few trusted pins, it becomes a very walkable, very fun final stop.
We didn’t need to do everything. The point was more to have a cluster of good options so we could wander, stop, drink, eat, and follow the mood.
Dublin spots our local friend had pinned
The Stag’s Head
Kehoe’s Pub
Grogans
The Hairy Lemon
Drury Buildings
L’Gueuleton
The Temple Bar Pub
Irish Whiskey Museum
One of my favorite last-day moments was having a drink on a boat on the river at Quay 16.
Save it here:
Quay 16, North Wall Quay
After ten days of driving, changing houses, ferry planning, and trying to fit in as much of Ireland as possible, sitting by the river with a drink felt like the perfect soft landing before leaving.
How I’d do Dublin at the end of this trip
Keep it simple:
choose a central area
save a handful of pubs and restaurants
don’t overbook the day
do one classic stop if you want, like Jameson or Guinness
leave time to just walk
end with a drink somewhere that gives the trip a final scene
Abroad Edit tip
In Dublin, a local friend’s map is better than a generic “best pubs” list. The magic is not trying to hit every famous place. It is having enough good pins saved that you can wander without accidentally ending up somewhere terrible.
Leaving Ireland by ferry
We left Ireland by ferry from Dublin to Holyhead, which was a very cool way to end the trip.
It made the whole thing feel like an actual old-school travel adventure instead of just another airport goodbye.
If you are continuing toward Wales, Liverpool, London, or somewhere else in the UK, this can be a great option.
Save:
Abroad Edit tip
If you are doing ferry plus train, leave plenty of buffer. It is romantic in theory, but it is still transport. Give yourself time.
What I’d do differently next time
I would plan fewer “maybe” stops
Ireland looks small on a map until you are driving narrow roads, stopping for views, waiting for sheep, pulling over for coffee, and realizing every drive takes longer emotionally than it does mathematically.
Next time, I’d keep the “maybe” list, but choose one main plan per day.
I would give Kerry even more time
Kerry was the part I wanted to stretch.
Between Sneem, Killarney National Park, Dingle, Gap of Dunloe, Torc Waterfall, Derrynane Beach, and the coastal drives, this area could easily hold a whole week.
I would make time for Sneem Seaweed Baths
This is my biggest small regret from Sneem.
Our HomeExchange host recommended Sneem Seaweed Baths and told us the owner was “absolute class.” We didn’t manage to fit it in, but next time I would absolutely build it into the itinerary.
After several days of driving and sightseeing, I think a proper seaweed bath would have been the perfect Kerry reset.
I would be more ruthless about Connemara
The Galway / Clare / Connemara section is gorgeous, but it is too easy to overpack.
Next time, I’d choose either:
Galway + Clare + Cliffs of Moher
orConnemara + Kylemore Abbey + Clifden / Roundstone
Trying to do both properly in two nights is ambitious.
I would pack better for wet walks
Not cute. Practical.
You want:
waterproof jacket
waterproof shoes or boots
warm layers
hat
sunglasses
day bag
car snacks
portable charger
something nicer for pubs and dinners, but not too precious
What to pack for an Ireland road trip in early May
Clothing
waterproof rain jacket
warm sweater or fleece
jeans or comfortable trousers
leggings or hiking pants
long-sleeve layers
T-shirts for layering
one nicer dinner outfit
sleepwear that works in cold houses
scarf or beanie if you run cold
Shoes
waterproof walking shoes or boots
comfortable sneakers
one nicer casual shoe for pubs and dinners
Road trip essentials
portable charger
car snacks
reusable water bottle
sunglasses
day backpack
motion sickness tablets if needed
offline Google Maps
downloaded playlists
charging cables for everyone
hand sanitizer or wipes
small umbrella, though honestly the wind may laugh at you
Nice-to-have
binoculars
camera
swimsuit for seaweed baths or hotel spa
travel laundry bag
small first-aid kit
notebook if you are sentimental and dramatic, which I apparently am
Who I’d recommend this Ireland road trip for
This trip is perfect if you want:
dramatic landscapes
cozy pubs
a mix of coast, castles, lakes, cliffs, and small towns
a trip that works for couples, friends, or family
enough movement to feel adventurous
enough home-style stays to feel grounded
a route that is ambitious but unforgettable
music, weather, and scenery doing most of the emotional work
I would not recommend it if you want:
one easy base
no driving
guaranteed weather
luxury polish at every stop
a tightly controlled itinerary
a trip where everything runs exactly on schedule
The beauty of this trip was partly that it was big, a little messy, and full of places where the plan had to bend.
Final thoughts
This Ireland road trip was one of those trips that reminded me why I love travel in the first place.
Not because every restaurant was perfect or every stop went exactly to plan. But because Ireland has a way of making even the in-between moments feel cinematic: the sheep in the road, the pub after the cliffs, the coffee with a view, the house in Sneem, the HomeExchange host who made us feel at home, the live music at Dan Murphy’s that made me cry happy tears, the creative Airbnb connection near Ballyvaughan, the local Dublin map full of hearts, the drink on the river at the very end, and the ferry out.
If you are planning a first big Ireland road trip, my advice is simple:
rent the car
give Kerry more time than you think
do not try to see everything
stay somewhere that feels personal if you can
pack for real weather
trust local recommendations
say yes to the pub music
leave space for the trip to become its own thing
That is where the magic is.